What Fabric is Modal? Production, Sustainability, and Uses

Modal is a bio-based fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. This type of fabric is known for its softness, smoothness, and breathability, which can often be compared to the feel of cotton.

However, there needs to be more clarity on the question: what fabric is modal? How is it made? And the level of environmental impact and general sustainability. So let’s try to make some clarity.

How is Modal Fabric Made

What Fabric is Modal? Beech tree for modal fabric
  1. Harvesting Beech Trees: The process starts by harvesting beech trees, ideally from sustainably managed and certified forests.
  2. Wood Chipping: These harvested trees are then processed into small wood chips. In these chips, cellulose and other substances like hemicellulose, lignin, and fat are present.
  3. Cellulose Extraction: The chips are soaked in a chemical solution to extract pure cellulose, typically involving sodium hydroxide (caustic soda).
  4. Sodium hydroxide removed: The cellulose obtained is pressed to remove excess sodium hydroxide, forming sheets.
  5. Shredding or Crumbling: Pressed sheets are crumbed or shredded mechanically.
  6. Production of Sodium Cellulose Xanthate: The broken cellulose sheets are aged, and carbon disulfide gas is applied, producing a yellow substance known as sodium cellulose xanthate.
  7. Second Sodium Hydroxide Bath: The sodium cellulose xanthate is again soaked in sodium hydroxide.
  8. Spinning of Fibers: The resulting solution is passed through a spinneret, a device with tiny holes, to form long filaments or fibers. This is when the material transitions from a fully synthetic to a semi-synthetic fabric.
  9. Formation of Yarn: These fibers are then soaked in sulfuric acid to create a form of yarn and subsequently washed, bleached, and dried.
  10. Weaving or Knitting: Finally, the sustainable yarn is woven or knitted to produce the modal fabric, which can then be used to create various products, such as clothing, home textiles, etc.

This is a complex process involving several chemical reactions. However, modal fabric production requires less chemical input compared to other viscose fibers and is therefore considered a more sustainable option.

Wod chips for cellulose extraction

What Apparel Can Be Made with Modal Fabric?

Soft as silk, durable, breathable, and highly absorbent, this semi-synthetic fiber has been used for many product lines. Here’s a list of products that have been created using the benefit of the unique qualities of Modal Fabric.

  1. Fashion and apparel, including t-shirts and athletic wear.
  2. Underwear and intimate wear due to its soft, smooth texture.
  3. Bathrobes and towels are owing to their high absorbency.
  4. Because of its natural stretch and durability, activewear such as leggings and yoga pants.
  5. Scarves, shawls, and hats due to their luxurious feel.
  6. Baby clothes and blankets for their gentle touch and breathability.
  7. Upholstery for its pleasing aesthetic and durability.
  8. Knitwear like sweaters and cardigans for its ability to retain color and resist shrinkage.
  9. Products requiring high durability and frequent washing due to the Modal’s robustness.
Sewing machine - textile- modal fabric

What Are the Characteristics of Modal Fabric?

What fabric is modal compared to other types of rayon? Modal is generally considered the more durable and flexible type. It can withstand machine washing and tumble drying better than traditional rayon. 

  1. Stretchable: Its flexibility makes Modal perfect for items like t-shirts and sportswear.
  2. Soft: It’s incredibly soft and is often chosen for items like bed sheets, pajamas, and undergarments.
  3. Breathable: The breathable weave of Modal fabric makes it ideal for sports clothing and daily wear.
  4. Water absorbent: It’s 50% more absorbent than cotton, with its micropores absorbing any water or sweat they encounter.
  5. Durable: Modal is robust and used for regularly used garments and household items due to the tight weave and long fibers.
  6. Good drape: Like rayon and other silk substitutes, modal exhibits excellent draping, making it perfect for clothing and decorative uses.
  7. Anti-pilling: The fabric resists pilling, which, coupled with its smooth finish, makes it ideal for regular wear.
  8. Colorfast: The fabric absorbs dye in warm water and retains color during laundering.
  9. Non-shrinking: Modal is less likely to shrink during washing than most rayon types.
  10. Biodegradable: Modal is entirely biodegradable.
  11. Crease-resistant: Modal is wrinkle-resistant, remaining smooth with minimal ironing.
Modal Fabric

Is Modal Better than Cotton?

Whether Modal is better than cotton largely depends on individual preferences and needs. Both Modal and cotton have their unique advantages and drawbacks. Modal, made from beech trees, is known for its softness, excellent drapability, and durability. It also holds color well, doesn’t shrink or pill, and is more absorbent than cotton. It’s a good choice for luxury clothing or items that require moisture-wicking, like activewear.

On the other hand, cotton, made from the cotton plant, is renowned for its comfort, breathability, and natural biodegradability. However, cotton may not be as durable as modal, can pill and fade over time, and is not as absorbent. 

In terms of cost, Modal is typically more expensive than cotton, making cotton a more affordable choice. However, cotton farming has significant environmental impacts due to high water usage and pesticide application. Therefore, the choice between modal and cotton should consider factors such as comfort, durability, absorbency, cost, and environmental impact.

Cotton fabric vs modal fabric

 Is Modal Better than Polyester?

Modal is biodegradable, exceptionally soft, and highly absorbent. It has a superior moisture-wicking capability and is more breathable than polyester, making it a comfortable choice in warmer climates. 

In terms of stretch, Modal also offers natural elasticity, ensuring comfort and flexibility. However, polyester, a wholly synthetic fabric, takes the lead regarding durability and availability. It is more wear and tear-resistant, making it a longer-lasting material. Furthermore, polyester is less expensive than modal, making it a more economical choice for many. While polyester lacks breathability and moisture absorption, it can be blended with other fabrics to improve these attributes. Therefore, whether Modal is “better” than polyester hinges on one’s needs, preferences, and budget.

What Are the Disadvantages of Modal Fabric?

While modal fabric offers many benefits, there are several drawbacks to consider. One of the most significant downsides of modal fabric is its potential to cause allergic reactions. The allergic reaction is more related to the chemical used in the production process than the fabric per se. 

Another disadvantage is Modal’s poor body heat retention. Unlike polyester, which is excellent at preserving body warmth, Modal doesn’t provide the same level of insulation, making it less ideal for cold-weather clothing.

Financially, modal fabric tends to be more costly than other commonly used materials like cotton or polyester. This is primarily due to its production process, which, while eco-friendlier than synthetic materials, is still quite complex and resource-intensive, thus driving up costs. While Modal is notably durable, it may not be as strong or long-lasting as other fabrics, such as polyester.

Is Modal Fabric Sustainable? 

The question of whether Modal fabric is sustainable requires a complex response. Sustainability hinges on multiple factors, including the source of the material, the manufacturing process, and the policies of the companies involved. Standard models produced in regions like China, Indonesia, and Pakistan often need more sustainability standards due to harmful chemical usage, detrimental effects on workers’ health, and pollution of local environments.

A report called “Dirty Fashion” and studies from the Canadian NGO, Canopy, have shed light on these issues, highlighting the alarming fact that endangered forests are being exploited to produce dissolving pulp for fabrics like Modal. The research revealed that cellulosic fabric production causes the wastage of approximately 70% of each tree used, exacerbating the environmental impact.

However, it’s important to note that modal does decompose entirely, unlike some petrochemical-based fabrics, making it somewhat more eco-friendly. Yet, the chemical-intensive production process and the usage of harsh dyes should be considered.

The Lenzing Group produces a more sustainable variant of Modal. They follow a biorefinery concept that ensures nearly 100% use of the wood and operates on a closed-loop production process to recover chemicals. Even though Lenzing only produces about half of its cellulose fibers and outsources the rest, they claim to maintain strict procurement guidelines for sustainable sourcing.

Despite these advances, the issue of sustainability extends beyond just the production of the yarn. When this yarn is converted into fabrics, often in countries with lenient environmental regulations, the process can contribute to further pollution. Therefore, while brands that source their Modal from Lenzing—referred to as TENCEL™ Modal—are usually more sustainable, it’s crucial to remember that the entire lifecycle of the fabric matters.

The sustainable status of Modal is thus conditional and largely dependent on who produces it, how it’s made, and the transparency of brands using it. Certifications from bodies like The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and Programme For The Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) can provide reassurances about the sourcing and production methods, helping consumers make more informed, eco-friendly choices.

What Fabric is Modal? – Conclusions

Modal is a semi-synthetic fabric that is smooth, soft, breathable, and often compared to cotton. It is versatile, durable, and used in different products, from clothing to home textiles. However, sustainability and environmental impact are complex topics, and while significant strides have been made in creating more sustainable versions of Modal, much depends on the transparency of brands and manufacturers.

As consumers, we must continue to demand transparency and responsibility from the brands we support. Let us strive to make informed decisions about our purchases, considering not only the feel and look of a product but also its broader impact on our world.

We hope this article has shed light on Modal fabric, its production uses, and sustainability. We would love to hear your thoughts. Do you use products made from Modal? How important is the sustainability of the fabric to you? Share your opinions in the comments section below.

Finally, if you found this article informative and helpful, please share it on your social media channels. By spreading knowledge about these topics, we can promote more sustainable and responsible choices in fashion and textiles. Let’s make a difference, one share at a time!

RenzoVet
RenzoVet

A Veterinarian who grew up in the countryside of a small Italian town and moved to live and work in the United Kingdom. I have spent most of my professional time trying to improve the quality of life of animals and the environmental and economic sustainability of farm enterprises.

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